10/10: Joanna Blythman reviews 83 Hanover Street, 83 Hanover Street, Edinburgh

And now the ceviche of stone bass is exciting our taste buds, the fish tenderised by the vivacious lime in its marinade, unapologetically front-loaded with sliced, unseeded chilli, softened by sweet cubes of squash; the master stroke here is the flakes of crisped up fish skin that introduce further texture and flavour.

83 Hanover Street, The List

There’s a confidence here that belies the restaurant’s relative youth: a plate of charcuterie from the (excellent) East Coast Cured is served simply and cleanly so the produce shines. Yet elsewhere on the menu it’s the accompaniments that add intrigue: sharp, oniony pebre salsa with the sopaipillas (squidgy little fried breads made to the owner’s mother’s recipe); nubbly, savoury bean stew with tender octopus; squidgy, spicy new potatoes with the punchy swordfish and chorizo skewers (and while everything is designed to be shared, you’ll probably want to keep them tatties to yourself).